The 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys is also especially good this year, delivering aromas of white flowers, citrus oil, freshly baked bread and bee pollen. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a fleshy core of fruit and racy girdling acids, this cool, marl-rich site has evidently excelled in 2020.

Cropped at a mere 17 hectoliters per hectare, the 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys has turned out brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with notes of crisp stone fruit, pear and green apple, complemented by subtle hints of oyster shell and mandarin. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and precise, with tangy acids and a pungently chalky finish, it will reward bottle age.

The 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys has turned out very nicely, offering up classic aromas of crisp green apple, citrus zest, white flowers and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, tensile and incisive, it's elegantly textural, with racy acids and fine depth at the core. As I observed last year, this is one of the domaine's cooler sites and thus one of the last to be picked.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys is also promising, revealing aromas of green apple, oystershell and struck match. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, ample and complete, with good structural tension and depth, underpinned by tangy acids.

The 2016 Chablis 1Er Cru les Lys comes from 0.5 hectares of vines, since part of the vineyard was pulled up last year. The vines face north and northwest. I found the nose here lacking the cohesion of some of William Fevre's other premier crus and missing the fruit intensity of their best offerings this vintage. The palate is well balanced with a fine thread of acidity, citrus-fresh with a bright, quite vivid finish that compensates for the aromatics. Hopefully it will meliorate by the time of bottling and my score reflects this.