The 2020 Meursault Les Chaumes is a cuvée that includes some plantings of Chardonnay muscaté, and that's reflected in its somewhat exotic bouquet featuring apricot, peach, melon and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with bright acids and a saline finish, it's an attractive effort but also likely to divide tasters.

The 2013 Meursault les Chaumes comes from replanted vines and has a light apple blossom bouquet that does not quite display the presence of the Meursault Village. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a fine line of acidity but for me, just a little too much fatness on the finish. This seems like an easy-drinking style of Meursault to enjoy over the next 4-6 years.

The 2012 Meursault Les Chaumes comes from the parcel of vines bought and cultivated by the town and distributed to local young growers around 1997. It has a fruit-driven, menthol-tinged bouquet that is faintly reminiscent of Greek Retsina! That is not meant in a pejorative way – just an observation. The palate is well-balanced with a core of marmalade-tinged citrus fruit, though it does not quite possess the mineralite of Boyer-Martenot’s other village crus. Drink now-2022. It was my first time visiting this domaine and young winemaker Vincent Boyer. Their winery is situated in the lower reaches of the hilly Meursault village. Their set up is one whereby tourists are welcomed to visit the cellars and purchase bottles directly. That is often interpreted as a sign of more commercial wines for less discerning tourists, after all, you never see Aubert de Villaine beckoning visitors inside. Do not make that mistake here. I was impressed by both the estate’s enviable portfolio of holdings scattered over 10 hectares in Meursault, Puligny, Auxey-Duresses and Pommard, and Vincent’s assiduous approach to winemaking. If anything, his 2012 whites are so vibrant and surfeit with minerality that it exaggerated what I found lacking in the small number his reds, even if they are peripheral within Yves’ portfolio. The holdings were accumulated by Vincent’s ancestors on both his paternal and maternal lineages, hence the hyphenated name. It was the marriage of Andre Boyer to Juliette Deveze that linked Meursault with Puligny respectively. Then their son Yves was married to Marie Cecile Martenot in 1976. Between 1997 and 2007 the domaine has discretely acquired further holdings. Yves has a simple approach to winemaking. He uses new oak thoughtfully, so that it is embedded and frequently barely noticeable within his wines, thereby allowing the terroir to be articulated. He bottles relatively early. His 2012 whites had all been bottled when I tasted them in October, 2013, though Vincent expressed a desire to extend the barrel aging if space permits. Then again, judging by the performance of these wines, I am not totally convinced that is entirely necessary. Vincent Boyer’s premier crus are all matured in a judicious one-third new oak. The reds are not exported to the United States. Importer: Michael Skurnik, Peter Vezan.