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While the 1993 Muscat d'Alsace (much of it from the Herrenweg vineyard), is dry, with 11.8% alcohol, it possesses a delicate, mineral, flower garden, fruit cocktail nose that is hard to resist. Medium-bodied and subtle, this expressive, enchanting wine should be drunk early to take advantage of its intense fragrance, which tends to quickly disintegrate. Dry Muscats from Alsace are enticing wines that can be sipped as an aperitif, with numerous seafood dishes, and even fatter dishes, especially foie gras.The 1992 and 1993 wines reviewed in this issue are the wines of a genius. Importers: Wine Markets International, Inc., Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 525-1524

I hope readers have begun to discover the extraordinary dry Muscats of Alsace. They are unlike any other wines in the world. A good introduction is Zind-Humbrecht's 1991 Muscat d'Alsace, a wine made from yields of only 35 hectoliters per hectare. A fruit cocktail-scented nose, interspersed with scents of flowers soars from the glass. There are unbelievable quantities of fruit in this dry, medium-bodied wine, as well as plenty of richness and a heady, alcoholic (14%) finish. Unfortunately, only 40 cases were allocated to the United States, which is 260 less than usual - giving you an idea of just how small Humbrecht's 1991 crop was. I do not ever remember a producer in a so-so year making such magnificent wines! Bravo to Olivier and Leonard Humbrecht!As extraordinary as the 1989 and 1990 Zind-Humbrecht wines are, these 1991s, largely because of the difficulties presented by the vintage, are even more amazing. Readers must keep in mind that for the top Alsatian producers the situation is much like that in Burgundy - only tiny quantities of wine available. Between 50 and 150 cases of each wine is the entire allocation for the American market.Zind-Humbrecht wines are imported by Wine Markets International, Syosset, NY and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA.