Intensely floral and peppery, the 2017 Lovat Vineyard Syrah positively screams cool-climate Syrah. Fortunately, it has the requisite ripeness and fruit on the medium-bodied palate to carry it off, adding dark berries and black olives to the range of flavors on offer. The tannins are ripe and silky, the finish long and elegant. Simply a stunning effort that offers both complexity and grace, it should drink well for up to a decade.

Already throwing out considerable sediment, the 2016 Lovat Vineyard Syrah became a vibrant purple hue in the glass. Violets and cracked pepper make for an enticing nose, and that's backed by blueberries and blackberries on the palate. It's medium-bodied but intense, with just-ripe tannins and bright acids that give the wine a precise, elegant feel and lengthy finish. One of two great Syrahs from Martinborough (the other being Kusuda's), it should drink well for a decade or more.

Dry River's 2015 Lovat Vineyard Syrah is a dark-hued beauty, redolent of cola, espresso and boysenberries. Medium-bodied, it's firm but ripe, showing ample depth and richness on the palate and a long, mocha-tinged and softly dusty finish. It should drink well for a decade or more.

From a warm year, the 2011 Lovat Vineyard Syrah displays ripe, plummy aromas and perhaps a bit less peppery spice than is typical. It's still very much in the cool climate, medium-bodied, spicy paradigm that Dry River Syrah is known for, but the fruit is darker and jammier, even almost seven years post-vintage. The now-silky tannins make this wine approachable, but it should also keep well for another 6-7 years.