The 2012 Riesling opens with intense lime cordial and lemon juice notes accented by peach blossoms and jasmine nuances. This light-bodied, dry style of Riesling has a touch of residual sugar (five grams per liter) that is lifted by crisp acid through the long and honey-laced, citrus finish. Drink it now to 2016+. Neil McCallum was one of the Martinborough wine pioneers, planting some of the first vineyards in Martinborough at Dry River in 1978 and remaining with this winery until his departure in 2011. For Dry River, the biggest gains in recent years have come from McCallum’s refining their vineyard techniques. In fact, very few changes have happened in the winery over the years (well, except for the cross-flow filter, of course). It’s a curious vineyard to look at – I don’t think I have ever seen Pinot vines so big! Burgundian examples look like bonsais next to these Pinot trees splayed out on a Scott Henry trellis. Still, the ultimate proof is in the taste, and in terms of quality Dry River Pinots are right up there. I truly hope that the new team can look to one day wean themselves off that cross-flow filter though, at least for the Pinot.Imported by RO Imports LLC, New York, NY; tel. (212) 916-3320; fax (212) 916-3306

A dry, austere Riesling, with what one hopes will be considerable cellaring potential, Dry River’s 2009 Craighall displays apple and lime accents and a long, citrus-rind, almost lip-puckering finish. ——J.C.(4/1/2011)—— 90