This is Cogno's top-shelf wine that represents a micro-vinification of the rosé clone of Nebbiolo from an even more closely defined parcel. Only 3,800 bottles were made. The 2017 Barolo Riserva Ravera Vigna Elena is a hot-vintage expression (in fact, the alcohol jumps up to 15% in this wine) with a broad and rich personality that fits in line with the character of the growing season. In addition to that textural support, this wine is also more accessible and raring to go. Blackberry is interlaced with licorice root, cola and spice.

The Elvio Cogno 2016 Barolo Riserva Ravera Vigna Elena represents a tremendous effort and a wine that makes the best of an iconic vintage and a celebrated territory. The Ravera cru of Novello is making some of the best new Barolos today, and it definitely made some of the best expressions from the 2016 vintage. The bouquet is mostly primary and bright, but there are light hints of age that are already beginning to appear. They include licorice, tar and camphor ash. This elegant wine exists in only 5,000 bottles made.

The 2015 Barolo Riserva Ravera Vigna Elena (with 4,000 bottles made) is coming along beautifully with lots of dark fruit packed tight within and a well-developed savory side, with leather, tar and cured tobacco. Now, with the benefit of distance, we can see that the 2015 vintage has not aged evenly across the board, as some samples already show faded fruit. To be clear, that is absolutely not the case here. In fact, this Riserva sets the bar very high, thanks to its structure and length. Perhaps what it lacks is the extra acidity to push it along even further into the future.

The Elvio Cogno portfolio concludes with the special 2014 Barolo Riserva Ravera Vigna Elena. This wine from the cooler 2014 vintage stands far apart from the other new releases from the 2015 and 2016 vintages also hitting the market at this time. Ephemeral, fragile and delicate, the wine shows a softer caliber of fruit, with wild berry, cassis, smoke, tar and powdered licorice. There are earthy notes at the back with truffle essence and forest floor. This vintage offers a heightened level of complexity and nuance. This wine is a pure expression of the Rosé clone of Nebbiolo that is known for its lighter color and delicate aromas. A mere 3,000 bottles exist.

This is a beautiful wine from Elvio Cogno and, not surprisingly, the best from this batch of samples. The much-anticipated 2013 Barolo Riserva Ravera Vigna Elena is aged in large Slavonian oak casks and only made in select vintages. It breathes delicate truffle notes and forest berry flavors with just a touch of exotic spice. The wine is soft, lush and well textured, and it makes your mouth salivate. Showing the power and inner structure of the Ravera cru, this Barolo should age beautifully over the course of the next two decades.