The 2006 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva Opi spent 24 months in oak, every bit of which comes through in the glass to the point that varietal and regional character are totally drowned out. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. Farnese makes a wide range of wines but I nearly always gravitate towards the low end, where there is less of an effort to build the wines in the cellar. It is clear the estate is working with high quality fruit. It would be nice to see a more restrained approach in the cellar.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The estate’s 2005 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Opi offers up blueberry jam, mint, spices and flowers in an intense, opulent style. The copious French oak works nicely here and serves to give the wine an attractive richness and volume that carries the fruit through to the fat finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Careful oak aging has shaped a hearty and deeply concentrated Montepulciano d’Abruzzo that boasts pretty aromas of black fruit, spice, black stone and graphite. The wine is soft and very fruity with loads of lush cherry flavors.——M.L.(2/1/2009)—— 90

The 2003 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Opi is a big, earthy wine bursting with over-ripe dark fruit, leather and spices. This is an especially rich, dense style of Montepulciano. Although the wine possesses remarkable concentration at the outset, it falls a bit short on the mid-palate. This it is an attractive, rewarding wine to enjoy over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900