This wine is an exceptional value.This wine was rated, but no tasting note was given. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-WINE; fax (914) 251-0283; and Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel (847) 679-0121; fax (847) 679-2017.

The 1998 Viognier Or Blanc offers lots of depth of fruit and a layered, thick texture. This first-rate aperitif should be drunk over the next year. Importers are William Deutsche and Sons Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463, and Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121; fax (847) 679-2017.

I am a big proponent of Viognier. As an aperitif wine it has few equals, and a chilled bottle served on a warm summer day can deliver unbridled happiness to those present. Drawing on the recent resurgence of Condrieu (a Viognier-based Rhone), Duboeuf fashions two delicious Viogniers. The Viognier Or Blanc has a similar nose to the Viognier (Flower label) VDP de l'Ardeche but offers more concentration, intensity, and complexity on the palate, but is also less "gay" and refreshing. It should be consumed over the next year while it is vibrant and fresh.Importers William Deutsch and Sons, Ltd., Armonk, NY; tel (914) 273-1221; fax (914) 273-1291, and Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel (847) 679-0121; fax (847) 679-2017.