Bananas as well as apples are found in the aromatics and flavor profile of the 2002 Viognier Vin de Pays de l’Ardeche. An easy-going, simple wine, it is nicely done but lacks the depth, richness, and length of some past vintages. Drink it over the coming 6-12 months.Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121

Duboeuf's Viogniers, made from vineyards in the Ardeche, are perennial Best Buys. The 1998 Viognier has gorgeous peach and orange rind aromas. This ripe, wonderful wine is crammed with white peaches, apricots, pears, and cannot help but bring a smile to the taster's face. Drink it over the next year. Importers are William Deutsche and Sons Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463, and Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121; fax (847) 679-2017.

I am a big proponent of Viognier. As an aperitif wine it has few equals, and a chilled bottle served on a warm summer day can deliver unbridled happiness to those present. Drawing on the recent resurgence of Condrieu (a Viognier-based Rhone), Duboeuf fashions two delicious Viogniers. Revealing fresh, floral, apricot, and peach aromas, the Viognier (Flower label) Vin de Pays de l'Ardeche (harvested at 32 hectoliters/hectare) is a lively, refreshing, light-to-medium-bodied wine filled with refreshing honeysuckle and crunchy apricot flavors. It should be consumed over the next year while it is vibrant and fresh.Importers William Deutsch and Sons, Ltd., Armonk, NY; tel (914) 273-1221; fax (914) 273-1291, and Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel (847) 679-0121; fax (847) 679-2017.

Duboeuf's 1995 Viognier VDP l'Ardeche (the third vintage he has produced of this wine) is once again a candidate for the best value-priced Viognier in the world. The wine has a 90-point nose and 85-point flavors. With a big, peach, honeysuckle, citrusy bouquet, medium body, clean, crisp flavors, and a dry finish, it should be drunk over the next year.Duboeuf, undoubtedly the boss of Beaujolais, is turning out an amazing array of terrific wine bargains for less than $10. His personal taste tends to favor crisp, light-bodied, dry whites, in contrast to American tastes, which desire more flavor and intensity. Duboeuf has begun to insist on riper fruit, and push the limit of extraction to produce more intense white wines. That is apparent in the 6 inexpensive white wine offerings reviewed in this segment.Importers: William Deutsch, Armonk, NY; tel. (914) 273-1221 and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (708) 679-0121

Georges Duboeuf has accomplished miracles with his young 200-acre vineyard of Viognier (pronounced vee-own-yea) in l'Ardeche. The 1993 Viognier is a textbook example of this varietal. The provocative, intense bouquet of peaches, honeysuckle, and a touch of apricots is followed by a medium-bodied, ripe, concentrated wine with lovely integrated acidity, and that luscious, hedonistic personality that has made Viognier such a rare and expensive dry white wine. However, this offering is a steal! If Duboeuf can consistently produce Viognier of this quality, wine consumers will be forever grateful. As in 1991, the Beaujolais region was able to harvest nearly two-thirds of its crop under splendid weather conditions, escaping most of the damage caused by the deluges that swept across France. The "King of Beaujolais," Georges Duboeuf, has recently released many of his flower label bottlings and separate domaine bottlings of 1993 Beaujolais. They are once again excellent wines that represent terrific values. Recent medical news that moderate red wine consumption can have positive health benefits should help increase the sale and consumption of Beaujolais! After years of ignoring my advice, even my teetotalling mother now consumes a few glasses of Beaujolais each day. High quality, low prices, and numerous possibilities for pleasure is all there can be said about Duboeuf's first releases from the 1993 vintage! Importers: William Deutsch & Sons, Armonk, NY and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL.