The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Initial presents an intriguing melange of slate, crushed rocks, lemon, white flowers and ash. An utterly vivid, kaleidoscope of aromas and flavors follow as this crystalline, utterly pure wine comes alive in the glass. As is often the case, the Initial stands out for its focus, vibrancy and tension. The Initial is the freshest of the Selosse wines and is therefore a great introduction to the house style. This release is a blend of vintages 2005, 2006 and 2007, from the villages of Avize, Cramant and Oger. Disgorgement date: April 24, 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018.

The chalk soil is much more like the albariza in Jerez than like the limestone of Burgundy, says Anselme Selosse. Dosage 1.6 g/l. Disgorged July. Deep and intense on the nose and has a lovely rich spice with hints of ginger and dried grasses. A touch of apple and yeasty richness. So intense and full flavoured. Powerful and long. Rich and rounded and hard to believe the dosage is so low. (JH)