Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1Er Cru Champ Canet from Boillot has a very fine stony, gunflint and pressed flower-scented bouquet. There is a soup?on of broodiness here although it does open nicely on the palate with pretty dried apricot and Clementine notes. This is a very subtle Puligny, not overt and really open at the moment, but you have to stand back and admire the precision and detail on the finish.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1Er Cru Champ Canet was a little dumb on the nose and not inclined to express its terroir at this stage. The aromatics seem ... blank. The palate is a different kettle of fish with peach, grapefruit and orange peel notes, good weight in the mouth and a spicy, lively finish that lingers on the aftertaste. It begs the question -- where have the aromatics gone? Tasted May 2016.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet from Jean-Marc Boillot feels a little oaky on the nose at the moment, although there seems to be enough substance to absorb that with time. The palate is a little anonymous on the entry, balanced but compared to Jean-Marc's other 2012s, it has relatively less to say. Still, it does exhibit impressive crispness towards the finish.

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Champs Canet is one of the more overt 2010s in this lineup. Floral, honeyed tones give the Champs Canet an element of voluptuousness and sheer viscosity. Although there was no botrytis in the fruit, there is an element of sweetness that gives the Champs Canet an exotic, at times, tropical air. I find considerable beauty in the glass, but I imagine the wine’s extroverted personality won’t appeal to everyone. According to Boillot yields in Champs Canet were down more than 50% in 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. This is an impressive set of wines from Jean-Marc Boillot. The 2010s are very clearly marked by their terroirs, a departure from vintages such as 2009 and 2011, where the wines are less vivid. Boillot began harvesting on September 19th. Natural alcohols came in around 12.8%-13.2%, pretty much the same as in 2011.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet has a linear, direct, quite intense bouquet with just a slight reduction, opening up all the time with fresh pear, dewy green apple and subtle waxy notes in the background. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, fine tension, rather Meursault-like in style with orange zest and freshly sliced pear towards the tense finish. This is an accomplished wine from Boillot and should drink well for a number of years.