The 2009 Merlot Grand Reserve is a dark, full-bodied wine loaded with black cherries, plums, chocolate, spices and licorice. This is a far from easygoing Merlot. There is plenty of underlying structure to balance the fruit. The 2009 Grand Reserve has more then enough character to stand up to the heartiest of cuisines. A dollop of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon was added in the final blend. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. I must say I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Kendall-Jackson. Qualitatively the wine are head and shoulders above the vast majority of what is available in the same price points, but what amazes me most is Kendall-Jackson’s ability to achieve such a high average level of quality with production levels that are truly eye-popping. In 2010, which was not an abundant year, Kendall-Jackson produced nearly 2,000,000 cases of the flagship Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay. This is a brilliant showing from winemaker Randy Ullom and his team comprised of Matthew Smith (reds) and Mark Theis (whites).Tel. (800) 769-3649; www.kj.com

The 2008 Grand Reserve Merlot (98% Merlot and the rest other Bordeaux varietals) offers notes of graphite, charcoal, plum sauce, black cherries, mocha and toast. This dense, structured, medium to full-bodied Merlot is approachable now, but is capable of lasting 7-8 years. Kendall-Jackson enjoys a well-deserved reputation for over-delivering quality vis a vis price for its wines.Tel. (800) 769-3649; www.kj.com

The 2007 Grand Reserve Merlot, also from Sonoma, is a slightly bigger wine with similar character but more density and more fruit. The lowest level of the Kendall-Jackson empire, the Vintner’s Reserve series, goes from strength to strength. For consumers hoping to maximize their dollar value, these serious wines are consistent choices. Their Chardonnay has always been good, but dramatic increases in quality have taken place in the Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon programs.Tel. (800) 769-3649; kjwines@kj.com

Very rich, ripe and dry, a Merlot with a drop of Cabernet that needs a year or two to resolve. It’s fat and fleshy in cherries, violets, red currants and cola, with a dusting of cocoa, pepper and cinnamon. The tannins are ample, but very finely ground. Hold until 2011.——S.H.(5/1/2010)—— 90

A wine that should rekindle consumer interest in Merlot is the 2006 Grand Reserve Merlot. Plenty of seductive, chocolaty, black cherry, and berry fruit emerge from this deep ruby/purple-hued, medium to full-bodied, 100% Merlot. With good depth, a silky texture, and a heady finish, it should drink well for a decade or more. As I wrote last year, despite a production of two million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, 110,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Merlot, and 170,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, these are all good as well as value-priced wines. The third level in the Kendall-Jackson hierarchy is the Highland Estates cuvees, all essentially single vineyard wines from some of Jess Jackson’s finest sites. The brilliance of the Chardonnays in this portfolio needs to be addressed. Kendall-Jackson’s Highland Estates is also showcasing some very fine Pinot Noirs, generally made from the newer Dijon clones planted in cool vineyard sites. The Bordeaux varietal blends are all well-made wines, but except for the 2006 Merlot Taylor Peak (1,500 cases), production ranges from a low of 340 cases for the 2006 Trace Ridge Proprietary Red, to 870 cases of the 2006 Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com