The dark ruby-colored 2007 Highland Estates Pinot Noir Seco Highlands displays a cool climate, crisp minerality, steely black cherry and strawberry notes, and abundant structure. As I wrote last year, despite a production of two million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, 110,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Merlot, and 170,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, these are all good as well as value-priced wines. The third level in the Kendall-Jackson hierarchy is the Highland Estates cuvees, all essentially single vineyard wines from some of Jess Jackson’s finest sites. The brilliance of the Chardonnays in this portfolio needs to be addressed. Kendall-Jackson’s Highland Estates is also showcasing some very fine Pinot Noirs, generally made from the newer Dijon clones planted in cool vineyard sites. The Bordeaux varietal blends are all well-made wines, but except for the 2006 Merlot Taylor Peak (1,500 cases), production ranges from a low of 340 cases for the 2006 Trace Ridge Proprietary Red, to 870 cases of the 2006 Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com

Classic Monterey Pinot, dry, crisp, silky and ripe. The fine 2007 vintage has made it explosive in cherries, currants, sassafras and cola, with refined, new oak notes of smoke and spice. Drink this rich wine now through 2013.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 92

A little brittle in texture and transparent in flavor, with cherry, cola, herb tea and spice. Fine and clean, but tends toward lightness. Call it elegant, and enjoy with roast salmon, grilled lamb chops.——S.H.(7/1/2008)—— 87

The 2005 Highland Estates Pinot Noir Seco is a crisp, cool climate example of Pinot offering cranberry, tart cherry, earth, and oak characteristics. Medium-bodied and charming, it should drink well for 2-4 years. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985