Made with Merlot, the 2020 Messorio is a profound and richly textured wine that has become one of vintner Cinza Merli's flagships. Ripe fruit, dark cherry, oak spice and toast converge with balanced intensity to characterize this generous expression from Tuscany. The issue with Merlot, especially in a hot vintage such as this, is ripeness or, specifically, over-ripeness. Messorio navigates a challenging growing season with flying colors.

The stunning Le Macchiole 2019 Messorio is all Merlot from a special 2.5-hectare plot with a classic mix of Bolgheri soils featuring clay, silt, sandstone and limestone. The wine ferments in concrete and finishes in new barrique for 18 months. I spoke with proprietor Cinzia Merli about Merlot, and she concedes that this early-ripening grape suffers the most because of climate change. However, the winemaking team works extra hard for balance and elegance notwithstanding. This beautiful wine releases perfumes of cherry, blue flower, iris root, crushed stone and slate. Well-balanced oak tones add power and texture to the full-bodied close. 11,000 bottles were released.

Le Macchiole's 2018 Messorio is soft and rich with impressive depth and intensity, all delivered with the softness that only the Merlot grape can manage. This important wine unfolds first to rich cherry and blackberry and then yields softly to secondary notes of spice, baker's chocolate and toasted almond. There is some youthful tightness in the mouth, with Merlot tannins that are hitched to firmness and softness, while showing impressive length all the while. The mouthfeel is most impressive, thanks to its seamless and supple nature that glides smoothly over the palate.

Messorio is a wine that beautifully reflects the characteristics of the vintage and is a very accurate measuring stick of how any single vintage will eventually perform both in terms of near-term accessibility and long-term cellar aging. That said, the Le Macchiole 2017 Messorio plays its strongest cards in terms of mouthfeel and texture, revealing a robust structure and firmly integrated tannins that come from both the richly concentrated fruit and the careful use of oak. The wine shows a heavy center of gravity and a solid base of dark fruit that is enhanced by caramel, brown sugar, spice and creamy blackberry preserves. It does offer immediate appeal, but I'd wait a few more years to give this 2017 Messorio more time to flesh out and evolve.