Readers looking for something weighty, sweet, and provocative should check out the non-vintage East India Solera. A blend of soleras averaging 15 to 50 years of age, it boasts a dark amber color as well as a huge nose of melted toffee, caramel, figs, and prunes. This over-the-top yet surprisingly vibrant (because of good acidity) effort is best drunk as dessert at the end of a meal. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897