The barrel-fermented 2019 Saint-Péray Lieu-dit Hongrie features scents of scorched citrus zest, toasted grain and grilled pineapple, and yet I don't find the level of oak objectionable. The charred notes are a minor element, with the wine being more about the citrusy fruit and ripe, round feel on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, this is lush and immediately opulent, yet retains a sense of structure on the long, mouth-coating finish. This is a very consistent bottling year after year, and the 2019 may be the best one yet.

Bottled just a week before my visit, the 2018 Saint-Péray Lieu-dit Hongrie was already showing off its stuff, bursting with notes of grilled pineapple and citrus. It's medium to full-bodied but crisp and firmly built, with a silky feel on the palate and a lingering, nicely focused finish.

Located in the heart of the appellation, with a mix of limestone and granite-derived soils, the 2017 Saint-Péray Lieu-dit Hongrie offers hints of honeyed tangerine on the nose. All Marsanne, it delivers ample weight and round pear and melon notes on the palate, backed by a dry, savory sense of chalk dust minerality and texture that lingers on the finish.

The 2016 Saint Peray Lieu-dit Hongrie marries honey and citrus zest in an exciting white wine grown on a combination of sandy granite and limestone clay soils. Medium to full-bodied, it has a rich, silky texture and a long finish. It should drink well for at least a few years.