No tasting note given. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided. As I tasted through Drouhin's offerings of 1995 red burgundies, I was struck by just how differently each terroir expressed itself. Generally, in truly great vintages ('85 and '90 in Burgundy and '82 and '90 in Bordeaux), young reds, at least when young, tend to express vintage characteristics more than individual terroirs. 1995 is an outstanding vintage, just below the quality of '85 and '90. However, the terroir characteristics of the 1995s are very evident, especially at Maison Joseph Drouhin. Perhaps the tight, concentrated fruit that characterizes 1995 allows more room for the terroir to show itself (as opposed to '85 and '90's lush forward, expressive fruit). Importer: Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel: (212) 818-0770.

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The medium ruby-colored 1990 Savigny Les Beaune-Serpentieres has a closed nose of earthy, cherry, dried pit fruit aromas. Medium-bodied, with fine extract and fruit, as well as more noticeable tannins, this wine can be drunk now, although it would benefit from 1-2 years of cellaring. It should last for 8-10 years. Drouhin makes stylish, elegant red burgundies which, from a technical point of view, are always flawless. His 1990s from the Cote de Beaune are lovely, pure, medium-weight wines with both elegance and gracefulness. The characteristics of the 1990 vintage - the super color, sweet, expansive fruit and ripeness - are also apparent, despite the Drouhin signature. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY.