The 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons opens in the glass with aromas of orange oil, fresh apricot and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, rich and textural, with a fleshy core of fruit, tangy acids and mordant phenolics on the somewhat heady finish, it's marked by the extremes of the vintage.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons is one of the high points of the range, wafting from the glass with aromas of dried white flowers, green orchard fruit, lemon oil, anise and wet stones. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with a deep, layered core that displays impressive concentration, racy acids and a touch more mid-palate amplitude than the more linear Sécher.

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons is very pretty, wafting from the glass with notes of green apples, dried white flowers and ripe Meyer lemon, framed by light reduction. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural, with tangy acids, good mid-palate volume and a pure, delineated finish. It was fermented and matured in stainless steel.

The 2015 Chablis 1Er Cru Vaillons is similar to my previous tasting note, with scents of grapefruit and yellow plum but perhaps less exotic than it showed previously. The palate is well balanced with a crisp entry and just a touch of lemon curd with a spicy undertow. This has always been a relatively fiery Vaillons and it continues to be that way. Drink now and over the next four to seven years.

The 2014 Chablis 1Er Cru Vaillons was picked on September 15 and 16 and has the lowest pH at 3.13. The bouquet is clean and precise with granite and touches of dried yellow flowers emerging with aeration. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, a pretty Vaillons with brushes of yellow plum and ginger towards the finish. Enjoy over the next 5-8 years.