Notes of green apple, pear, citrus zest and subtle spice introduce the 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, a full-bodied, satiny wine that's almost unctuously textural and is rich and gourmand in profile, with good concentration and depth. It's a lavish, dramatic Bougros that will never rank as a great vintage but which will deliver a great deal of immediate pleasure.

The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros possesses more mineralité and complexity than the les Clos, though it may not be as pretty as the Vaudésir at this stage. The aromas are similar to before, with a hint of acacia developing in the interim. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. It is harmonious and focused with a tang of spice toward the finish. This is perhaps the most precise of Drouhin-Vaudon's 2015s and it should drink well for 12 to 15 years.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros was picked on September 26. It has a well-defined bouquet with dried honey, granite and a distant sea spray/salty influence that lends it more complexity than the 2015. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, the same weight as the 2014 Les Clos, but with more spiciness on the lemongrass-tinged finish, a bit like a Les Preuses though with more finesse. This is a very fine Bougros and it should give many years of pleasure.

The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros comes from a one-third hectare on a steep slope. It has an austere nose, very reticent upon first acquaintance, touches of nettle and burdock, wet granite with more aeration. The palate is balanced, quite elegant with just a touch of orange rind on the entry. There is a roundness to the texture, again, a relatively easygoing and approachable Chablis with a pleasant saline-tinged finish. Give this two or three years in bottle so that it needs to open.