The Jadot white 2006 Cote de Nuits-Villages is from a bit over two acres of mature Chardonnay vines abutting the Clos de la Marechale. Striking scents and flavors of nougat, marzipan, sassafras and root beer fit well with a subtly creamy and overtly dense palate feel. Yet, a pleasantly stimulating hint of malic tartness works its way through without becoming at all obtrusive. In lieu of experience, I would hazard a guess that this will be best consumed within a couple of years of bottling. The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.)Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300

The 2002 Cote de Nuits Villages sports a great nose of rich, creamy minerals. Armed with gorgeous breadth and richness, this bacon, white pepper, pear, and spice-flavored wine is lush, deep, and well-focused. Projected maturity: now-2009. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300