The 2020 Grands échézeaux Grand Cru is a striking young wine, offering up aromas of mulberries and cassis mingled with orange zest, exotic spices and rose petals. Full-bodied, seamless and complete, with an immensely layered, fleshy palate, it concludes with a long, penetrating, saline finish. Such is its fruit concentration that its rich, powdery tannins are almost imperceptible. Over the last decade, the Grands-échézeaux has tended to take a back seat to the Romanée-Saint-Vivant and Richebourg, but that certainly isn't the case in 2020.

The 2019 Grands échézeaux Grand Cru is more reserved than the échézeaux, even if it's far from forbidding. Mingling aromas of blackberries and raspberries with notions of exotic spices, orange rind, smoked duck and forest floor, it's full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with broad structural shoulders supplied by ripe, powdery tannins. Layered and muscular, it's remarkably seamless and integrated at this early stage, concluding with a long, sapid finish.

The 2018 Grands échézeaux Grand Cru is a rich, muscular wine, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, sweet berries, red fruit compote and plums mingled with subtle hints of exotic spices and peonies. Full-bodied, fleshy and broad-shouldered, with an ample core of fruit, powdery tannins, ripe acids and a long, heady finish. Out of the gates, the 2018 is something of a fruit bomb, but with time it should metabolize that puppy fat to become something special.

More brooding and reserved than the échézeaux that preceded it in the tasting, the 2017 Grands échézeaux Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with an enticing bouquet of cassis, blackberries, blood orange, exotic spices and musk. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a more introverted, structured profile than the échézeaux, its considerable reserves of concentrated fruit framed by an abundance of powdery tannin and succulent acids. Long and penetrating, this will reward sustained bottle age. The Grands échézeaux was picked on September 12.

The 2016 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru was cropped at seven hectoliters per hectare, and it handles the sway of the barrel in superior fashion to that of the Echezeaux, at least at the moment. There is crisp blackberry and bilberry fruit, fine mineralité and a whiff of wild heather and drizzly moorland. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin. It is underpinned by crisp acidity, and here I discerned more red fruit vis-à-vis the Echézeaux, blessed with a tender but sustained and poised finish. This is classy, and I suspect this year, a step up from the Echézeaux.