The 2005 Grands-Echezeaux displays an utterly different, less charming personality than its “l(fā)ittle” sibling. Fresh black raspberry and black cherry hover between sorbet-like and faintly-caramelized manifestations. The palate is obviously dense, with considerable grip and ultra-fine tannins, incipient silkiness, but not the creaminess of the Echezeaux. Fresh berry, faintly tart fruit skin, and nut oils inform an uncannily kinetic finish that makes one’s mouth quiver. Once the grapes in these fabled vineyards had reached a potential alcohol of 13%, reports Aubert de Villaine, he was ready to pick, because conditions had seldom been so conducive to perfect ripeness (including that of the stems). It was all done in a week, commencing with La Tache and Romanee Conti, and finishing on September 23 with Romanee-St.-Vivant (and Montrachet, on which I shall report at a future date). De Villaine intended to bottle in March or April by gravity in six-barrel lots, as has become general practice here over the past decade. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661.

From the aromas, this is immediately more intense and profound, offering blackberry and violet notes. Very silky, rich and concentrated, this refined wine has more sweetness at its center, with great finesse and length. A big step up from the Echézeaux.—Non-blind 2005 DRC tasting (February 2008). Best from 2016 through 2040.??–BS??Region: France / Burgundy / Grands Echézeaux Select to Add