Notes of cherries, red berries, orange rind and subtle spices introduce the 2020 Monthélie Sous Roches (Domaine Gagey), a medium-bodied, lively wine built around velvety tannins and bright acids. Concluding with a long finish, this is one of the sleepers in the range this year.

Scents of raspberries, cherries and strawberries introduce the 2019 Monthélie Sous Roches (Domaine Gagey), a medium to full-bodied, lively wine that's charming and fruit-driven, with lively girdling acids and chalky tannins. This cuvée over-performs this year.

The 2018 Monthélie Sous Roches (Domaine Gagey) exhibits aromas of spicy red berry fruit, sweet soil tones and raw cocoa. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, lively and precise, with chalky tannins and, at this stage, a slightly compact profile that typically rounds out with further élevage.

The 2016 Monthélie Sous Roches (Domaine Gagey) is showing well from bottle, though it will require a little patience. Offering up aromas of cherries, cassis, coniferous forest floor and a deft touch of cedary new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a tight-knit core of sappy fruit, fine but youthfully firm tannin and a long, nicely defined finish. Given the wine's substance and structure, I suspect that even as much as a decade's bottle age will bring considerable upside, though it can be enjoyed sooner.