The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume (Maison Louis Jadot) is a success in this challenging vintage, unfurling in the glass with aromas of waxy Meyer lemon, iodine and smoke, with only subtle hints of the 2016 muskiness poking through on the upper register. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, bright and incisive, with brisk acids and a chalky finish.

The 2015 Chablis 1Er Cru Fourchaume is matured 50% in stainless steel and 50% in oak barrels with 15 months on the lees. Tasted blind, incidentally, I felt that it was showing too much oak on the nose and this occluded the terroir expression, that sense of Chablis austerity that marks its best wines. The palate is rich and quite honeyed, slightly buttery in style. It's a Chardonnay that has plenty of flavor; however, it's not one you would pin down as a Chablis. Commercial in an unabashed way, it is an extravagant, delicious Chardonnay rather than a great Chablis.

The 2014 Chablis 1Er Cru Fourchaume, which spent 13-15 months on the lees, has a perfumed, floral bouquet with hints of rose petal infusing the citrus fruit lacked with dried pineapple. The palate is fresh and vibrant with good depth in the mouth. This feels harmonious and nicely poised, the salinity surfacing towards the sappy finish, and begging you back for another sip. This is an excellent, well-crafted Chablis Fourchaume from Jadot.

The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume has a very composed and refined bouquet with Granny Smith apples, nettle and granitic scents that are very delineated and focused. The palate is balanced with ripe green apple and pear, the acidity lower than expected and as a consequence the finish is missing the tension of its peers. It started well before finishing in underwhelming fashion. Scores don't lie, especially when blind. So yes, I did score the Chablis 2014 higher.

The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume comes from limestone slopes and is vinified in stainless steel before being transferred into wooden barrels for 10 to 12 months. It has a pretty, clean and pure bouquet with lime flower complementing the mineral scents. The palate is well-balanced with crisp citrus lemon and a well-balanced, peach skin finish that lingers in the mouth. Fine. Drink now-2017. Imported by Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300