Marcassin's 1999 Chardonnay Three Sisters-Sea Ridge Meadows Vineyard is a brilliant effort that was given extensive lees stirring until the spring following the vintage, and then not racked until it was absolutely essential. The result is a wine of extraordinary complexity, texture, and richness with striking buttery citrus and liquid mineral notes as well as a juicy, heady, lemon/pineapple, steely personality. Although extremely full-bodied, it remains exceptionally elegant and stylish. Like all the Marcassin Chardonnays, it will be bottled with neither fining nor filtration. (Not yet released) Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633

The mineral-dominated 1998 Chardonnay Three Sisters-Sea Ridge Meadow Vineyard reveals the essence of soil in its flavors. Additionally, it offers creamy custard, citrus, honey, and butternut notes, huge amounts of fruit, phenomenal texture, and a spectacularly long finish. Drink this prodigious Chardonnay over the next 7-8 years. (Not yet released) Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633