Piedirosso is Campania's answer to Pinot Noir and the 2014 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso does a good job of making this point. The wine opens to a pretty ruby color and big fruit intensity with wild berries, cassis and blueberry. Winemaking for the red Lacryma Christi del Vesuvius does not differ much from winemaking for the white version of the wine. Piedirosso is the opposite of Aglianico thanks to softer tannins and less extract. These grapes thrive in black volcanic soils and the heat that reflects off the vineyard topsoil fuels most of the fruit ripening.

One of the many great values in the collection, the 2011 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso is a beautiful unoaked red that highlights the distinctive personality of Piedirosso, an indigenous red grape that continues to show its pedigree and potential. Smoke, bacon fat, incense and licorice are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. Elements of wildness add intrigue and complexity over time. The 2011 offers serious quality and sheer personality for the money Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Mastroberardino is another winery that seems to have found an extra gear or two over the last few years. The Taurasis remain the flagships, but readers should also pay close attention to the entry-level reds and the best whites in this range. All of the wines are deeply varietal, making Mastroberardino a perfect place to start learning about the great wines of Campania. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2010 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso presents the elegant side of Piedirosso, one of Campania's most important indigenous red grapes. Ash and minerals add nuance to the dark wild cherries in this hugely enjoyable unoaked red. I especially like the energy and focus here. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. Mastroberardino is one of Italy's most historic properties. My vertical tasting of the estate's Taurasi (published in Issue 190), with vintages back to 1928, was a revelation. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Mastroberardino’s 2009 Lacryma Chirsti del Vesuvio Rosso is a big, beefy wine packed with dark cherries, tar, licorice, leather, spices and game, all typical of the Piedirosso grape. This rustic full-bodied red is not for the faint of heart but it will pair beautifully with similarly hearty fare. That said, I am pleasantly surprised to see this turn more delicate in the glass over time, with pretty scents of mint, flowers and dried herbs that add complexity and elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Mastroberardino is one of the historically significant names in Italian wine. These entry-level selections offer plenty of insight into the unique qualities of Campania’s myriad indigenous red and white grape varieties. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2008 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso (Piedirosso) bursts from the glass with an intoxicating, heady array of bacon fat, smoke, tar, ash and dark red cherries. Despite its deceptive, mid-weight style, this dark brooding wine offers tons of complexity and personality. Though quite beautiful texturally, the strong aromas and flavors might not be for everyone, but paired with the right foods – such as grilled meats – the wine should drink beautifully. This is a gem from Mastroberardino. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. This is an impressive set of entry-level wines from Mastroberardino, an estate that in recent years has begun to recapture some of its past glory. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620