Light ruby-colored, with amber at the edge, this 1993 Barolo Vigna Rionda offers an attractive combination of spice box, cherries, and earthy aromas. The tannin is elevated, but there is sweet fruit on the attack, as well as good spice. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

The 1990 Barolo Vigna Rionda is the most tannic and backward of the 1990 offerings. It possesses promising extract levels, an excellent black-cherry, tar, and floral-scented nose, and a spicy, long, full-bodied finish. This winery changed its label from Gran Duca, upgraded its labels and began to put its wines in expensive designer bottles. Chiarlo has made a huge qualitative leap with the 1989 and 1990 Barolos. Previously the wines displayed a degree of blandness that bordered on insipidness. What a pleasure it is to see Michele Chiarlo turn out such high class wines! Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY.

Toasty new oak aromas complement copious amounts of ripe, herbaceous, black-cherry fruit in the 1989 Barolo Vigna Rionda. Made in a modern, pure, supple style, it possesses fine fruit and length. It should drink well for 15 years. This winery changed its label from Gran Duca, upgraded its labels and began to put its wines in expensive designer bottles. Chiarlo has made a huge qualitative leap with the 1989 and 1990 Barolos. Previously the wines displayed a degree of blandness that bordered on insipidness. What a pleasure it is to see Michele Chiarlo turn out such high class wines! Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY.