A Pfeffingen 2009 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken unites smoky pungency with bright lemon-lime citricity in a rather spare though refreshing performance, finishing with a pithy impression of mineral extract and invigorating salinity. Less winsome than the corresponding generic bottling from the Nussriegel, I would plan on serving this within the next 2-3 years. Jan Eymael elected to perform significant leaf-removal in order to permit his crop – especially the Scheurebe – to hang free, with the result, he explained, “that botrytis never really could establish itself” and the range of nobly sweet Scheurebe one generally looks forward to at this address is absent from 2009. Total acid levels are moderate this year, but the low pH levels in the grapes led Eymael to give his dry wines longer skin contact than usual to help buffer them. “Bear in mind that we’re one of the warmest spots in the Pfalz,” notes Eymael in connection with this year’s early, September 28, commencement of his Riesling harvest, though picking continued for nearly three weeks.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463

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