The Pfeffingen 2009 Ungsteiner Weilberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs originates in a cooler site and harbors marginally higher acidity than the corresponding Mardelskopf (i.e. “M”) Grosses Gewachs, but it is also not only lower in alcohol and higher in residual sugar, it is simply more engaging in personality. Lemon rind, persimmon, and peach kernel lend pungency and bitterness to be sure, but there are also refreshing juiciness and mouth-watering salinity, along with a gripping sense of finishing stoniness that in no way impedes their flow. I would anticipate this holding up well for at least 3-4 years. Jan Eymael elected to perform significant leaf-removal in order to permit his crop – especially the Scheurebe – to hang free, with the result, he explained, “that botrytis never really could establish itself” and the range of nobly sweet Scheurebe one generally looks forward to at this address is absent from 2009. Total acid levels are moderate this year, but the low pH levels in the grapes led Eymael to give his dry wines longer skin contact than usual to help buffer them. “Bear in mind that we’re one of the warmest spots in the Pfalz,” notes Eymael in connection with this year’s early, September 28, commencement of his Riesling harvest, though picking continued for nearly three weeks.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463

While the Pfeffingen 2008 Ungsteiner Weilberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs retains a mere 1.5 grams of residual sugar, it is less extreme in terms of alcohol than the corresponding Herrenberg. Lemon and grapefruit offer brightness, and white almond and peach are folded into a texturally subtly creamy palate. Hints of peach kernel, smoky black tea, grapefruit zest, and salt add contrast and invigoration to a wine far more fun to drink than its rather massive and staid Herrenberg counterpart. There is sap and energy to spare, and I would not be surprised to find it worth following for a decade. It threatened to become another 2006, said Jan Eymael of the mid-September, 2008 rain, but even in the warmest parts of the Pfalz the weather stayed relatively cool, and he did not pick the first Rieslings until September 30, then continuing off and on for three weeks. The later it got, the better the grapes became, comments Eymael. Another month on the vine allowed for the November 18 picking of two magnificent nobly sweet Scheureben.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463