The 2005 Barolo is a gorgeous, plump wine with tons of dark fruit, sweet spices and flowers. Medium in body, the wine reveals lovely depth in an easygoing style. The tannins remain a bit firm but there is more than enough fruit to provide balance. Another year or so in bottle should help smooth the slight rough edges that are present today. The estate’s Barolo is made from four vineyards in the Terlo zone above Barolo, where the vineyards average 25 years of age. The wine spent 12 months in French oak barriques (60% new) followed by 18 months in 25 hectoliter Vicard French oak barrels. This is a lovely effort from Einaudi. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is another very strong set of wines from Einaudi and dashing proprietor Matteo Sardagna. Moderate yields, longer periods of skin contact, an increasing reliance on cask and lower amounts of new French oak are just some of the changes that have taken place as this historic property once again takes its place among the Piedmont’s top estates. In 2005 the Barolos spent a total of 3-4 weeks on the skins and were aged in a combination of small barrels and medium-sized casks. These dense, fruit-driven Barolos were among the most vibrant wines I encountered. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Blackberry and milk chocolate aromas. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a balance of plum and red fruits in the aftertaste. Best after 2012. 1,195 cases made, 650 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Like the 2003, Einaudi’s 2004 Barolo is another superb effort at this level. It offers gorgeous aromatics and well articulated fruit on a medium-bodied frame of notable elegance. This bottling is made from the less well-exposed parcels of the Via Nuova vineyard and was the only Barolo that was in bottle at the time of my November visit. The wine spent 16 months in barrique (40-50% new) followed by 15 months in 25 hectoliter casks. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Consulting oenologist Beppe Caviola has been instrumental in ratcheting up the quality at this historic property. I can’t think of too many estates that have made such significant strides in just the last few years. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Very chewy, with lots of berry and coffee character. Full-bodied, with dusty tannins and a long finish. Needs time in the bottle to mellow. Best after 2010. 800 cases made, 450 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add