The 2006 Syrah Stolpman Vineyard is an emaciated, meagerly endowed, somewhat acidic effort. One of my favorite Central Coast wineries appears to have struggled with ripeness in the challenging 2006 vintage. However, at the same time, Qupe has also produced some impressive cuvees. The leanest, most austere offerings include two of the single vineyard Syrahs. Tel. (805) 686-9699; Fax (805) 937-2539

From one of the top sites in the Santa Ynez Valley, the dark ruby/purple-tinged 2005 Syrah Stolpman Vineyard boasts classic blackberry and cassis notes interwoven with licorice, smoke, and barbecued meat-like aromas. With excellent texture, superb purity, medium to full-bodied flavors, good underlying acidity, and ripe tannin, it will evolve for 10-12 years. Tel. 805-937-9801

The outstanding 2004 Syrah Stolpman Vineyard’s dark ruby/purple color is followed by aromas of smoky charcoal, black cherries, and cassis, deep, rich, medium to full-bodied flavors, good glycerin, and a seamless, lush finish. Consume it over the next 7-8 years. Tel. 805-937-9801

The deep ruby/purple-colored 2003 Syrah Stolpman Vineyard reveals a briery mountain fruit-scented bouquet with notions of blackberries, forest floor, and spring flowers in the background. With impressive purity as well as density, medium to full body, and nicely integrated wood, tannin, and acidity, this luscious Syrah exhibits more texture and lower acidity than either the Purisima Mountain or Central Coast cuvee. Tel. (805) 688-2477

The deep ruby/purple-colored 2001 Syrah Stolpman Vineyard offers up aromas of raspberries, blackberries, earth, and licorice. A compressed finish with noticeable acidity gives it a more compact textural mouthfeel. This medium-bodied, safely-styled Syrah will probably get higher marks from Pinot Noir enthusiasts than Rhone Ranger lovers. Consume it over the next 5-6 years. Readers who love Pinot Noir should check out these Syrahs as they offer elegant, fresh, lively flavors, high acid profiles, and nowhere near the mass, concentration, or power of some of this varietal’s bigger examples. Tel. (805) 688-2477