Tasting through Robert Mondavi's portfolio continues to reinforce my impression that this winery is undeniably the spiritual and qualitative leader of that sector of the California wine industry dedicated to producing world-class wines. What is so admirable about the entire Mondavi operation is that they continue to push their wines to higher and higher qualitative levels. Their nearly obsessive pursuit of bottling the wines with no manipulation has led to the majority of Mondavi's white wines being bottled without filtration - an extraordinary testament to their commitment to natural wines and superb quality. Mondavi has also inaugurated a line-up of Italian-inspired varietals (Barbera, Sangiovese, Pinot Grigio, Malvasia, and Tocai) in designer bottles. While the quality is good, those products have not yet hit the heights of the firm's other wines. Rest assured, that will change. While most wine collectors concentrate on Mondavi's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon program (and why not?), this winery has been turning out fine, unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignons from Napa and from their Oakville vineyard. The 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa displays a healthy, saturated dark ruby/purple color, moderately intense cassis aromas backed up by oak, full body, excellent purity, an attractive, sweet, expansive mouthfeel, and light tannin in the finish. Already delicious, it will last 10 or more years. All things considered, there is plenty to be excited about at the Robert Mondavi winery. Tel. (800)-MONDAVI; Fax (707) 963-1007.

Readers should beat a path to their wine merchant and stock up on the 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon Unfiltered. This is the finest regular Cabernet Sauvignon Mondavi has made. It offers an opaque dark ruby/purple color, a superb nose of blackcurrants, vanillin, mint, and toast, outstanding richness, great purity, medium to full body, an attractive suppleness, and a long, rich finish. Although it can be drunk now, it should age effortlessly for 10-15 years. After producing a number of unexciting Cabernet Sauvignons in the early eighties, Mondavi has gotten this program back on track. Even the non-Reserve cuvees, which are now bottled unfiltered, go from strength to strength. This venerable Napa winery, which, justifiably, has enormous influence on the quality and direction of California winemaking, continues to perform admirably, pushing quality at both the vineyard and winery to greater heights. Readers who mistakenly believe size is not synonymous with quality must be surprised by the bevy of extraordinary wines turned out by the Mondavis. This winery's movement away from California's tendency to produce wines with excessive amounts of added acidity that are tart, often eviscerated (because of too much fining and filtering), began in 1987 with their Reserve reds. It has been vigorously continued, with the Mondavis now bottling virtually all their top white wines without filtration - a tribute to this family's commitment and dedication to excellence. Mondavi's new and up-coming releases reinforce Mondavi's position as the spiritual and qualitative leader of that segment of the California wine industry dedicated to producing world class, compelling wines. Tel. (707) 963-9611; Fax (707) 963-1007.

The 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon may be the best regular offering Mondavi has produced in over 15 years. It possesses a dark ruby/purple color, an enticing nose of vanilla, cassis, herbs, and spices, excellent concentration, a supple, medium to full-bodied personality, adequate acidity, and a fine finish. It should drink well for 8-10 years. Tel. (707) 963-9611.

With repesct to older vintages, in October I tasted three of Mondavi's more renowned Cabernet Sauvignons. The 1970 Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon (rated 94 points) is a gorgeous, luxuriously rich, vibrant, full-bodied California Cabernet that has thrown considerable sediment, but, wow, what flavors and richness it still packs. The color is a dark saturated plum/garnet. The wine reveals explosive black currant, cedar, Asian spice, and fruitcake-like aromas, long, viscous, thick, chewy flavors, and fabulous length. It remains in remarkable condition, with at least another decade of life ahead of it. Tel. (707) 259-9463 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 963-1007.