The 2003 Chianti Classico is a medium-bodied effort that presents jammy dark cherry fruit, licorice and toasted oak notes with good length as well as balance. It will offer its best drinking over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2011. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

Ruffino's 1988 offerings are made in an up-front, jammy, richly fruity style that offers considerable attraction and charm. There is no question that the 1988 Nozzole is deeper, with more evidence of toasty wood in the background than the 1988 Aziano. In addition, it is riper, with more tannin, and the finish is bigger and slightly more persuasive. This fuller, bigger wine can hold up to 5-7 years of cellaring. Importer: Schieffelin & Somerset, New York, NY.