From a loess-dominated parcel just a bit closer to Krems than the source for Salomon’s Messwein, his 2010 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben delivers smoky, sweetly pungent and biting notes of Szechuan pepper atop fresh green bean and roasted lentil. This is expansive and lush by vintage standards, with its acidity sublimated but most likely still a factor in generating the sense of energy and tactile pungency that accompanies its palate persistence. There ought to be at least 6-8 years of interest and versatility in this Gruner Veltliner of a sort that I would in general be tempted to pair with relatively rich and perhaps even carnal fare. Berthold Salomon suffered dramatic 2010 crop-losses with Riesling, but only a small diminution of Gruner Veltliner, “and for me,” he adds, “this is definitely a Gruner Veltliner year.” Between selective de-acidification of musts and allowing some lots to undergo malo-lactic transformation, the high acids of the vintage managed to be quite well-tamed at this address. (Details on some of this estate’s large acreage can be found scattered throughout my previous reports.)Various importers, including Fruit of the Vines Inc, Long Island City, NY; tel. (718) 392 5640, Artisan Growers & Producers, San Francisco CA; tel. (415) 264 4866, and Bommarito Wines, Saint Louis, MI; tel. (314) 961 8996

From old rented vines in the Sandgrub, Salomon vinfied in barrique a 2006 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben which I tasted assembled from tank. Sweet apple, floral, mint, sweet pea, and almond paste aromas usher in a creamy, leesy, rich, polished palate with a remarkable sense of delicacy and no overt woodiness. The finish here is remarkably refined and long, sweetly-fruited, and leesy. This will probably be best enjoyed over the next several years, but it is shockingly convincing, especially in the context of so many less successful attempts to make a statement with Gruner Veltliner in barrique.Erich Salomon succumbed to cancer last November (less than a week before Alois Kracher), but Berthold Salomon will continue the recent advances in quality at this estate as though his older brother were still looking on. Most of the harvest here took place in the second half of October.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300