The 2018 Merlot begins with a soft, perfumed nose of juicy plum, black cherry and sweet baking spices from a medley of 40% new French, Russian and American oak barrels. Medium to full-bodied, the wine is juicy, with a delightful mid-palate that delivers well for the price, ending with a clean and persistent finish. Only 2,688 bottles were filled. Give it a try.

The 2017 Merlot, which contains 5% Cabernet Franc, opens to a nose of dusty plum, black cherry and hints of sage, sweet vanilla and toasted coconut husk. Medium-bodied, the wine has a clean and correct palate with a balanced structure and ends with a soft, chocolaty finish. The wine aged 16 months in a mix of French, American and European oak, 40% new. Over 36,000 bottles were made.

The 2016 Merlot begins with a straightforward core of red plums, blackberries and dark cherries with hints of dark chocolate and purple flowers wrapped with subtle, sweet oak tones. Medium to full-bodied, the wine is uncomplicated on the palate, with a balanced structure and layered finish. 4,100 cases produced.

The 2011 Merlot is medium-bodied, plump, approachable and easy-drinking. Giving up pretty plum, earth, lead pencil and hints of herbaceousness, it will not make old bones but will drink nicely for 3 to 4 years. Made by Casey McClellan, these are superb, classically styled wines that are more than reasonable priced. His 2011s are quite strong here and while it wasn’t able to taste many of his 2012s, they appear to be a step up. Tel. (509) 529-7198; www.sevenhillswinery.com

It was difficult to get much out of the glass; the wine may have entered a dumb phase. There were vague hints of barnyard and plastic, suggestions of red fruits, and overall the wine left a rather sharp, herbal impression.——P.G.(12/15/2011)—— 86