Starts off closed, showing little but hints of smoke and toast. Like so many great wines, it gets better the longer it sits in the glass, developing deep blackberry scents and herbal, Rhone-like notes. The lush, juicy blackberries on the palate would be simple on their own, but they’re accompanied by smoked meat, toast, vanilla and Provencal herbs. Rich and full-bodied without being overblown, it’s understated yet packs subtle flavor nuances into every corner. Editors’ Choice.——W.E.(11/1/2001)—— 93