The most provocative wine, and to my palate, the most complex, is the 2009 Gigondas Vieilles Vignes. With notes of bay leaf, crushed rock, blueberry, raspberry, and spring flowers, the wine has terrific stuffing and full-bodied richness. It is a heck of a Gigondas that should drink nicely for 10-15 years. (Not yet released)Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Minerality (crushed stones), blackberry and other assorted red and black fruits are found in the 2001 Gigondas. Firm, with high tannin, and a medium-bodied, fresh, vigorous, long, concentrated finish, it will drink well for 7-12 years. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808 and Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029

Let me explain how these efforts, the most exciting negociant offerings of the southern Rhone, are produced. The owners of this high quality firm are Michel Tardieu, who sources the wines, and Dominique Laurent, the well-known Burgundy winemaker who has caused such an uproar in the Cote d'Or. Their cellars are in the beautiful village of Lourmarin. The wines are made according to minimalist theories. After purchasing finished wines from growers who only possess old vines and tiny yields, the wines are transferred by Tardieu to oak barrels made to the specifications of Dominique Laurent. They spend two years, virtually untouched, in oak. Sulphur additions are minimal. There is no racking of the wines, and bottling is accomplished without fining or filtration. This is what is called "reductive winemaking," and these brilliant efforts capture the essence of their particular appellations. Moreover, they possess tremendous upside aging potential. After purchasing these cuvees in nearly every vintage, I have learned that they are very closed and backward upon release. They need tremendous amounts of aeration prior to consumption. The finest cuvees demand a minimum of 5-6 years of aging, even in lighter vintages. The lower tier of wines, such as the Cotes du Rhones, are meant to be drunk during their first 5-7 years of life. Even they need decanting/aeration in order to blossom. Bottom line ... this is an extraordinary source of top quality wines.While I did not get to retaste this wine from bottle (it was all being shipped to the United States), this is my barrel-tasting score for this 2000 Tardieu-Laurent cuvee.Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808 and Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0039