The 2007 Vin de Paille Unpredictable Lad is produced from 100% Semillon dried on mats and aged in stainless steel. The nose is reminiscent of a melange of honey, melon, apricots, and peach. On the palate it is medium sweet, tasty, and lengthy. How it might evolve is anyone’s guess; I’d opt for drinking it sooner rather than later. Two Hands is a negociant operation run impeccably by Michael Twelftree. It reflects the best that can be sourced from all over South Australia. The packaging provides some serious design competition to the Dan Philips R Wine portfolio. The Garden Series is Shiraz sourced from a wide range of South Australia vineyards and line-priced at $60.Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; www.twohandswines.com

Two Hands’ sweet wines include the impressive Auslese-styled 2005 Unpredictable Lad, a 100% Semillon made in a Vin de Paille style. With 180 grams of residual sugar, there is no shortage of sweetness, and this cuvee reminded me more of a Beerenauslese rather than an Auslese-styled wine. Oily, rich, and honeyed with good acidity as well as a great finish and length, it should drink well for 5-10 years or longer. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Although Two Hands’ sweet wines do not quite measure up to the other strong cuvees, the 2004 Vin de Paille is a very good effort. Medium to full-bodied with attractive honeyed sweetness, the wine possesses some funk and disjointedness. The Vin de Paille seemed weird, but perhaps it was going through a difficult stage of its evolution. This brilliant operation is a credit to the meticulous winemaking of Michael Twelftree and his staff!Importers: Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA; tel. (215) 533-9463 and Joshua Tree Imports, Azusa, CA; tel. (626) 358-6600