I was disappointed by most of the Hospices de Beaune whites I tasted in November, and later in January, including Verget's Meursault Charmes Cuvee Bahezre De Launlay. The Hospices are under strict guidelines to use 100% new oak barrels because of past problems with used casks. While Andre Porcheret is certainly a highly-skilled winemaker, not all grapes can handle such an onslaught of oak. This being said, if the cuvee purchased by Verget can absorb its massive oak aromas and scents, it will be an outstanding wine. Revealing floral, vanilla, and coconut aromas, it has a silky-textured, full-bodied, and concentrated core of candied white fruits, minerals, anise, and an avalanche of oak flavors. Projected maturity: 2003-2008. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A year ago, Jean-Marie Guffens told me that 1996 was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when I visited him in November, Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.