A fine effort in a challenging vintage, Guffens's 1994 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru delivers aromas of candied peel, confit citrus, dried white flowers and almond paste, followed by a full-bodied, elegantly satiny and incisive palate that's saline and precise. Fully mature, it's drinking well today.

As the notes attest, Guffens is one of France's greatest white winemakers. The quality of his wines in so-so years such as 1991 shames many famous names. In 1992 the overall quality level is extraordinary. The grand crus include the superb, full-bodied, powerful, intense, backward 1992 Chevalier-Montrachet. Cellar it for 2-3 years and drink it over the next 12-15. These are truly the wines of a genius. I suspect their quality is so high it will shake-up a lot of white burgundy producers who have been resting on their historical reputations for far too long. The wines of Guffens are proof of the great quality that can be achieved without compromise. For that, consumers who care should be thankful. Bravo to Jean-Marie Guffens-Heynen! A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers, including Estate Wines, San Rafael, CA, Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA, and Barrique Wine Co., Chicago, IL.