The 2005 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Auslese “Fass 77" displays ester-rich, distilled red berry and pit fruits, sage and mint in an aromatic melange clearly marked by the pungency of botrytis. A dense but bright palate features red currant, lemon, and herbal concentrates and leads into a formidable, voluminous, faintly spiritous, and decidedly slate-lined finish. This Auslese is big-bodied and “old fashioned” in style, with its advanced ripeness cashing out in 10.5% alcohol – a throwback, some would say, to the days when Auslese was Auslese. I would not hesitate to forget this for 20 years in the cellar and expect further interesting developments beyond that. (There are half bottles of this – as there are of nearly all of Richter’s upper-Pradikat 2005 wines – for those who prefer a more rapid maturation.) Also recommended: 2005 Muhlheimer Sonnenlay Riesling “Zeppelin” ($16.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Classic ($18.00; 86), 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett feinherb ($26.00; 85+?), 2005 Riesling ($18.00; 85), 2005 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett ($25.00; 86+?).Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800