The 2009 Alan's Cabernets is a Bordeaux blend of 5 grapes, consisting mainly of Cabernet Sauvignon with about 10% each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc plus a little Malbec and Petit Verdot. Only made from the "free-run' juice of selected fruit, it was aged in 100% new French hogsheads for 22 months. Deep garnet-purple in color, it gives expressive notes of blackberry preserves and kirsch over cloves, anise, chocolate and eucalypt. The full bodied palate is concentrated with mouth-filling berry and spice flavors supported by medium to firm chewy tannins and refreshing acid, finishing with lingering notes of aniseed. Approachable now, it is still very primary and should settle into some complex savory notes in another year or two, drinking to 2020+. Note that as in 2008, no Duck Muck was produced in 2009.Importer: Rathbone Wine Imports, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 253-8332; www.fsfw.com.au

The 2006 Alan’s Cabernet Vat 1 is a five grape Bordeaux blend aged for 20 months in 100% new French oak with a bit of the wine receiving the “200%” new oak treatment. Purple-colored, it offers an alluring perfume of pain grille, pencil lead, mineral, black currant, and blackberry liqueur. Full-bodied and opulent on the palate, this dense, concentrated effort will evolve for 5-7 years with peak drinking years from 2016 to 2031. David “Duck” Anderson continues to lead the way in Heathcote. All of his wines come from estate vineyards with yields of under 1.5 tons of fruit per acre.No known American importer. www.wildduckcreekestate.com

The 2005 Alan’s Cabernets Vat 1 is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon with the balance Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. It was aged in 100% new French oak hogsheads for 18 months. Very perfumed and complex, it offers up notes of cedar, smoke, pencil lead, ginger, black currants, and blackberry liqueur. Creamy textured and nicely balanced, it will evolve for 6-8 years and drink well through 2025. Importer: No American importer; no web site located.