The 2011 Pinot Noir Mass Selection Estate Vineyard Block 10 begins strongly with a good burst of cherry fruit and pomegranates, then the acid kicks in and the wine narrows out, becoming increasingly compact. There is a lot to like, but there is also an issue of balance with the acid level. It should be consumed over the next 3-4 years. Alcohols in 2011 were not much lower than in some of the riper vintages, although they were definitely down. The 2011 Williams Selyem Chardonnays range between 13.9% (Heintz) to 14.5% (Olivet Lane). I tend to think this estate's Chardonnay program is underrated as it seems like their Pinot Noirs receive all the attention to the detriment of their Chardonnays, which can be brilliant. Tel. (707) 433-6425

The 2010 Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard Block 10 Mass Selection takes shape nicely in the glass, with layers of vibrant, poised fruit resonating off each other. Juicy dark cherries, cloves, mint and licorice are woven together in this pretty, nuanced Pinot. Another year or two in bottle should help all the elements meld together a little more fully than they are today. I especially like the purity of the finish here. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Tel. (707) 433-6425

The 2009 Pinot Noir Mass Selection Block 10-Estate Vineyard stands apart from the rest of the Pinots in this lineup. It was made from a 3-acre plot within the Estate Vineyard planted with multiple Pinot clones. The 2009 was vinified with 37% whole clusters and aged for 21 months in French oak, longer than the norm here. In the glass the wine comes across as clunky and heavy, with limited energy. The fruit never seems to fully emerge. For now, the 2009 signals a work in progress. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September.Tel. (707) 433-6425

From their own estate, the 2008 Pinot Noir Block 10 Mass Selection has tart acids (probably acidified, like most of these wines, which is a well-known practice here) with pomegranate, red currant and cherry. This extremely narrow wine could use more flesh and generosity, although the flavors and character are attractive. The finish is mostly acidic, which will not age away. There are four of them in 2008, all from heritage sites in the Russian River. With thirteen separate Pinot Noirs, Williams-Selyem has something for just about everybody. Eight of these Pinot Noirs hail from relatively well-known sites in the Russian River and three come from the Sonoma Coast, while the two outliers are the Weir Vineyard from Yorkville Highlands and the Ferrington Vineyard from the Anderson Valley. Three well-regarded vineyards of the Sonoma Coast comprise part of this impressive Pinot Noir portfolio from Williams-Selyem. With eight Russian River bottlings, the two with the largest availability are the Eastside Road Neighbors and Westside Road Neighbors, which are blends from different fruit sources. The most underrated wines in the entire portfolio are the Zinfandels that come from winemaker Bob Cabrol.Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546