A soft and rounded wine, packed with typical juicy blueberry flavors. The wine has bright acidity, its tannins melting into the fruit. Ready to drink now. Glass stopper.——R.V.(7/1/2011)—— 88

The Zantho 2006 St. Laurent – vinified in a mixture of used barriques and tanks – offers, as it has in past vintages, a slightly leathery, gamey side of this Pinot Noir relative – along with ripe cherry fruit and a generous mouth feel. It will, I suspect, be best enjoyed by early 2010. The collaboration between Josef Umathum (many of whose recent wines are reported on in this issue) and the growers’ cooperative Andlau on the Hungarian border, Zantho has been offering some excellent values, and now includes small amounts of Gruner Veltliner, Mucat Ottonel, and nobly sweet wine from other Burgenland sources. But the concentration here is on red, and all three indigenous varieties are rendered in versions that represent very good values.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334 6700

The 2004 St. Laurent – 20% aged in used barrels and the rest in tank – smells of leather, smoke, and damp humus. Quite thick in texture and rich in flavor, if a bit stewy, it follows the very carnal course already charted by the Zweigelt, but with less success. Still, it certainly represents good value and a good introduction to this variety.Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner ($11.00; 85), 2005 Blaufrankisch ($12.00; 86)Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700