The 2004 Syrah “En Cerise Vineyard’s multidimensional perfume of pain grille, plums, blueberry, spice box, and leather leaps from the glass. This is followed by a wine with remarkable depth and concentration, a muscular, broad-shouldered wine with huge fruit encapsulated in a velvet jewel-box of a personality. With a finish lasting well over a minute, this powerful yet elegant wine should drink well through 2045. If that is not enough, I tasted a barrel sample of a 2005 Grenache which rivals the best grown in the USA. Could it be that before long Manfred Krankl of SQN will be known as the Christophe Baron of the Central Coast?Tel. (509) 526-0686; www.cayuse.com

Here’s a strong whiff of what Cayuse’s Christophe Baron calls the “good funk,” augmented with a blast of black pepper, meat and blood. There’s wild herb lurking in the background also, and as the Syrah opens up slowly in the glass it develops a powerful green tea scent. But what a glorious, pungent, earthy and sensuous mix of flavors, wild, organic and fascinating.——P.G.(3/1/2007)—— 92