An okay wine that’s light in color and aromatics, traceable in part to its cooler-climate heritage (95% of the grapes were grown in Mendocino, the rest in Sonoma, Monterey and Santa Barbara), which does give it some subtly pleasing red fruit and spice notes. But 2008 was also for much of Mendocino a vintage from hell and this wine may in truth be reflecting that year’s challenges. ——V.B.(2/1/2011)—— 84