This wine is a good to very good effort, but not complex. It should drink well for several more years. Chardonnay has never been one of Ridge's strong efforts, even though neighboring Mount Eden does a superlative job. Ridge's Chardonnays, which are put through full malolactic fermentation, are beefy, chewy wines with tropical fruit and citrusy, apple-like notes. Although elegant, they are monolithic and foursquare. Tel. (408) 867-3233; Fax (408) 867-2986

Anyone fond of power-packed, oaky California will go absolutely gaga over this gem from one of this country’s best wineries. Sweet vanilla, buttercream, bread dough and pronounced wood on the nose and an impressive flavor-to-body ratio make this an unbridled winner. Deft and flawless, this is a treat to drink. Filled with life, it will reward those who buy it by the case and consume it over the ensuing 24 months.——M.S.(10/1/1999)—— 93