Beringer continues to do everything right. Its staff of talented professionals may rank as the best in the business. Beringer's Chardonnays take advantage of the rich, opulent fruit the warm growing climate and rich soils provide. Since 1991, the top Chardonnays have been 100% barrel-fermented and put through a malolactic fermentation. Both the Private Reserve and Proprietor Grown Chardonnays have soared in quality, with exceptional vintages in 1991 and 1992.With respect to the 1991 and 1992 Proprietor Grown Chardonnays, the 1991 is in the market, and the 1992 will be released in January, 1994. Both wines emphasize rich, ripe, honeyed apple, buttery fruit, and are meant to be consumed within several years of the vintage. The 1992 is softer and more unctuously-textured than the 1991, but both are knock-out Chardonnays for the price.Beringer possesses some experimental batches of wine that are not likely to be released outside the winery. However, given the quality of such wines as their 1992 Pinot Blanc, 1992 Melon, 1992 Pinot Gris, 1992 Auxerrois, and 1992 Viogner, they are breaking new ground in California. Moreover, prices are reasonable.