It is hard to argue with those who claim that the finest of these single-vineyard offerings is always the Sori Tilden. The 1996 Sori Tilden reveals a pigmented/saturated ruby/purple color in addition to a tight nose, with aromas of blackberries, cherry liqueur, smoke, licorice, incense, and spice box. Enormous on the palate, with multiple layers of fruit, soft tannin, huge body, and a knock-out finish, it is backward and brawny. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030. As I reported in issue #124 (8-27-99), 1996 is a spectacular vintage for Angelo Gaja. There is a lot of speculation as to why he has dropped the name Barbaresco from the labels of his single-vineyard wines, but given his personality and overall commitment to quality, it can only be to improve the quality and give him some flexibility in difficult vintages to produce a wine that may or may not be 100% Nebbiolo. At least that's how I view it. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (516) 467-5907