The purple-colored 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon contains 15% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc aged for 25 months in 100% new, mostly French oak. It delivers a bouquet of cedar, spice box, sage, thyme, black currant, and a hint of balsamic. Just a bit compact on the palate, it may fill out with another 2-3 years of cellaring. However, at this stage of its development, it is something of a gamble. Columbia Crest, part of the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, is Washington’s largest winery. It produces mammoth amounts of wine (2,000,000+ cases) at a remarkably high level of quality. A visit to the cellars reveals brilliant organization, high morale, and a sense of personal involvement by the staff that undoubtedly adds value to the finished wine.Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

Though it lacks the broad, sweet fruit of the 2005 reserve, this is a fine reflection of the vintage. It’s compact, tannic, and a bit unyielding, but structured with enough density to age for a few years. Light red fruits are somewhat overwhelmed by grainy, toasty tannins; that should balance out with a little more bottle age.——P.G.(5/1/2010)—— 89